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"Lisbon: Tiles
Is
there a bluer country than Portugal? The blue sky and Atlantic Ocean
embrace the land. The blue moods of Fado, the melancholy folk music,
form the national soundtrack. And all across Portugal, the typically
blue designs of azulejos — ceramic tiles — are spread across
churches, monasteries, castles, palaces, university halls, parks, train
stations, hotel lobbies and apartment facades. The result is an
embellished land of Christian saints, biblical episodes, Portuguese
kings, historical glories, pastoral idylls, aristocrats at leisure,
landscapes, seascapes, floral designs and, above all, geometric motifs.
Thousands of specimens, from the 15th century to the 1930s, fill Solar
a nearly 60-year-old Lisbon tile specialist and antique dealer. (Solar
Antique Tiles, a newer showroom in New York City, is run by a family
member.)
Photo
Stacks
of tiles and hanging panels embody historical styles such as
Hispano-Moorish, Renaissance, Baroque, neo-Classical, Art Nouveau and
Art Deco. Blue and white are the star colors, though yellow, green,
brown and other hues sometimes play supporting roles.
Simple,
small individual decorative tiles start at 20 euros ($24) for
18th-century varieties and 8 euros for 19th-century examples. Be
prepared to pay 50 euros or more for 17th-century tiles and at least 100
euros for those from the 16th century.
One
marquee name in stock is Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, a celebrated
19th-century illustrator and ceramist whose work has been collected by
the British Museum. A dazzling neo-Moorish geometric pattern explodes in
a kaleidoscope of blue, white, emerald and caramel shapes across four
tiles (90 euros a tile).
Collectors
might consider rarities like an 18th-century 56-tile panel, originally
in an aristocratic lady’s dressing room, depicting a trompe l’oeil
mirror in which a noblewoman can be seen gazing into a looking glass
held by her attendant. The cost is 9,300 euros. Palace not included."
SETH SHERWOOD
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